As I type, the sun is setting over the hills behind the port, the sky is streaked rose, mauve and indigo and a soft warm breeze is soothing sun scorched skin. We’ve just had a delicious hot aubergine, brie and bacon salad in the cockpit after our swim and a sax player is serenading us from the shore. The lights are twinkling along the Pine Walk, other crews are buzzing ashore in dinghies for supper and a hint of sewage wafts across from the outlet situated conveniently right next to the public beach (well you can’t have everything!)
The spectre of our imminent return to ‘the real world’ looms over us with only 4 weeks to go and the decision as to where we winter Galatea crops up every hour or so. Right now we are considering the releven merits of Gruissan, San Carles de la Rapita, Barcelona, Badalona or Cartahegna. With JB committing to the World ARC 2010 all our previous plans are turned about. We will HAVE to finish the house before he leaves so may not get much sailing in next summer so now have to consider an annual berth rather than just a winter one. Also if we aren’t sailing for two (possibly three if we hang on in Auz and New Zealand for a while after he finishes) years should we sell her now?
Also on our minds is planning for John and Sylvia’s trip out to sail with us. They fly to Palma on 17th Sept to spend a week or so onboard and help put Galatea to bed. It will be my first cruise onboard Galatea with anyone other than JB and I am going to have to wear a lot more clothing than is my norm (well its just sooooo hot!)
15th August - Puerto Sant Antoni de Portmany
Back at anchor in St Antoni we arranged a leaving party – well morning coffee with Pat and Norman (Jade) and Bob and Diana (Sheer Fantasy) and went ashore to vittal up and check the Internet. Chores completed ashore we did the same onboard and having got Galatea ready to sail, waited for our guests to arrive. Just as everyone arrived onboard the Port Police arrived in a RIB and told us we had to move. They said we were ‘in the main channel’. (We checked carefully when we arrived and we were not! Overnight we had swung and were close but were still inside the channel markers – they were just being pedantic and making a point!) Believe me, you don’t argue with these guys (all 5 of them, with guns!!!) so we had to up anchor mid get-together. We grabbed a buoy for half an hour, said our good byes and motored out of Sant Antoni gladly.
16th August - Cala Blanca
We headed North anchoring in Cala Blanca on the N tip of Ibiza, for the night ready to start back across to Majorca in the morning. It was gorgeous. A crescent shaped cala with only 3 other yachts a few local motor boats, crystal water, a sandy bottom, thousands of tiny fish, towering cliffs and two fabulous villas on the shore. A perfect foil for St Antoni. We ended the day sitting up late counting the stars and marvelling at the partial eclipse of the moon with only 3 other yachts for company. Further entertainment was provided by a Spanish yacht coming in late and anchoring too close to a French yacht. A multilingual shouting match ensued in the near dark. The French yachtsman pointed out to the Spaniard that he was much too close, the Spaniard did not agree. He said so, volubly, and concluded by pointing out that he doubted the mental stability and parentage of the Frenchman. Funny how much you can understand when you don’t speak the language. After he had moved away and re-anchored the Spaniard then got into his dingy, along with powerfull torch and went over to the French yacht for another go. He circled the French yacht, hurling abuse and waved the torch about for emphasis. It was better than Monty Python! (Actually he was too close, and he knew it!)
17th August - The crossing
6.00 am saw us up and off, and a glorious sail followed. A stiff breeze saw Galatea cruise at 7 knots, the sun shone and the crew were happy. We aimed to cross to Mallorca, continue up the W coast and stop overnight in Puerto Soller. Then continue next morning to meet up with Mick (Simo) in Pollenca for a chocolate ice-cream fest. At least that was the plan. The plan was going beautifully. Mallorca came in sight and we headed for Dragonara (the island on the SW tip of the island). Our pace slowed as we came into the wind shadow of Mallorca and headed up the channel but we pressed on under sail. We knew that as we headed up the W coast we would loose the wind and have to motor so wanted to sail on as long as possible. Eventually, doing only 3knots we gave up and JB switched on the engine. I said, JB switched on the engine… Oooops, no engine. At least no engine noise. It stopped. He tried again. Phut, phut, dead! No engine, no wind … help!
Action stations. Do we push on to Puerto Soller or go back to Puerto Andratx? JB spent a lot of time in Andratx last year and knows people there, Andratx is nearer and has better facilities for repairs. Decision made. A quick investigation revelas that we have a blocked fuel pipe. No problems we have a spare tank full. JB rigs up and emergency system and off we go. Slowly. The engine runs fine. BUT! It uses the fuel at a prodigious rate as it’s only using some of it and dumping the rest back back into the big tank. (I am told this is normal) Soon it runs out. Back to sailing but still hardly any wind. It took 2 hours to tack about a mile. I phoned the Port Authority who were useless. There was nothing for it. We had to get into a busy harbour, under sail with no berth to go to. A nightmare!
Puerto Andratx
Tacking became impossible in the confines of the harbour so we lashed the dingy to the side of Galatea and, with me in the dingy steering the motor, brought her in under the power of the ouboard. Just off the town quay we dropped anchor and waited for the inevitable! We were not disappointed! Within 4 minutes the port authority were alongside (remember those? The ones who would do nothing to help, not even reserve us a berth or guide us into port? Had not even noticed us coming into port under sail, had not noticed us come in under power of a dingy lashed alongside.) “No anchor here! Eeess not permited!” He got both barrels from me. I did not mince my words. I was not very ladylike. I did not feel very ladylike. I was furious. Fortunately he could not understand much English (but he seemed to get my drift and backed away swiftly). Fortunately JB intervened, smoothed International relations and explained. No engine! NO ENGINE! We were told to wait. We did! Half an hour later he came back. We could stay where we were. Early next morning, again lashed to the dingy we got Galatea into a berth on the Town Quay and there she stayed for 3 days.
Apart from all the mechanicing (done by JB) and cleaning (done by me) we found time to make new friends and re-aquaint ourselves with old ones. Henri (Marie Louise - Denmark) invited us to a party onboard one night and we met Ulrike and Klaus (Sy Einhorn - Hamburg) through Kiwi, their big, friendly long haired golden retriever. When we left it took us ages to go round and say goodbye to everyone. It was a huge treat to be able to walk ashore but the over zealous port officials made life a bit of a chore. Everything was ‘Eeess not permited!’ The downside was that the delay meant we would be too late to rendezvous with Mick in Pollenca as he had to leave by Thursday. Still we hope we can meet up with him and Jackie later in the season. Our important thing to remember in Andratx was Louisas birthday. We phoned and sang down the phone on the 19th and promised a second party when we get home.
24th August – Puerto Soller
It was a good job JB fixed the fuel problem as we motored all the way up to Puerto Soller stopping off for a swim at our favourite spot on the way up. We watched the Eleanoras falcons (rare birds) swoop around the cliffs and braved the jelly fish. The water felt like silk, it was heaven.
Puerto Soller proved to be as rolly as ever and the bar on the Club Nautica quay played music till 2am but next morning we went ashore and took the train/tram to Soller. It’s a pretty town surrounded by orange and lemon groves, so very picturesque. I wanted to go on the train to Palma. I have heard it’s a very scenic run through the mountains but at 17 euros each return, a bit steep. We could hire a car for 30 Euros a day. That night after supper it was a gorgeous night and there were no mozzies about so we decided to sleep in the cockpit. Marina Tramontana (the bar) had other plans and hiked up the volume again until 2am. It was a good job. Around 2.30am JB noticed that it was gusting and could see lightning playing around the distant hills. After a quick look see in the dingy, its anchor up and smartly onto the town quay. A good move as the anchorage deteriorated over the next 2 days as the swell found its way in.
One of the (many) good points of Puerto Soller is that it has a laundrette, so I took full advantage and got bag loads of laundry done. (Gosh what an exciting life I lead!) Also (once again) being on a pontoon, we took the bike ashore and took turns to explore the town. At sunset on our last night we found a balcony over hanging the sea at the top of the town. It was a magical sight looking out to sea and lots of people had gathered to watch as the sun went down. We decided that ‘if you can’t beat em, join em’ was a good tactic and went to Marina Tramontana for a nightcap. Best margarita I’ve had so far!
26th August – Cala Formantor
Our next stop took us round Cap Formentor with Eleanoras Falcons patrolling the cliffs. This coast is so impressive. The huge cliffs are awe inspiring. Cala Formantor is a very picturesque place with the 5 star hotel setting the level for the spectacular villas dotted around the hills. However such exclusivity costs, as we learned to our coast last year. 13 euros for a G n T!!! in the Barcelo Hotel which dominates the bay and there is no anchoring. Last year you were charged for using the buoys but for some reason the ‘official’ said we could stay 24 hours for free. So we stayed 2 nights (for free!). Our stay was spoiled a bit by the incessant drone of water siers and jet skis and the swell from the ‘glass bottom boats’ that bring tourists to the beaches in droves but it really is a pretty place and the swimming was wonderful with such clear, warm water.
28th August - Puerto Pollenca
So now we are back in our favourite town but too late to meet up with Mick who had to sail back to Badalona. It’s disappointing that we can’t get wi-fi from the boat but we can go ashore to Hotel Daina for a coffee and a skype.
PS. A few days ago I thought it was getting cooler... but I was wrong!
Thursday, 4 September 2008
Wednesday 13th August - At anchor, Puerto San Antonio de Portmany, Ibiza Island
As I type, JB is wrestling with the sewing machine and several yards of canvas with the generator buzzing away on deck. A wind scoop is essential out here or else you cook. The one we bought works great but is too flimsy and showing signs of imminent disintegration already so JB has decided to design his own. Watch this space and cover your ears, the air is blue!
It’s mercifully been cool, overcast and not so mercifully blustery here today. I had to stay onboard on watch whilst JB did the chores ashore as anchors have been dragging, tempers fraying and boats bumping. The holding is poor (just weed and rock) and the veering gusts drag any boats whose anchors are not well set. We seem OK but some boats circled for literally hours setting and resetting their anchors.
I’m also feeling a bit grotty (no not a hangover) as I have a mild tummy bug I just don’t seem to be able to shake off. It started in Andratx nearly 3 weeks ago and is resistant to my mega doses of acidophilus in an effort to get rid of it. I feel better for 3 or 4 days then have another grotty day. So I’ve had a lazy day with just water in the hope it will help.
Espalmador
On the good news front Espalmador was everything we hoped (except for the other 56 yachts and stinkpots on buoys as well.) We had 2 nights there and three days. It’s a privately owned, very low lying spit between Formetera and Ibiza with just 2 houses and a ruined watch tower. The buoys are protected to all points of the compass and there is a long, sandy beach with sugar soft sand that boats are allowed to land on. It’s the nicest beach we have seen, a real dessert island type idyll - so much so that I actually swam off the beach and sunbathed – a first for me this year as I’m not a beach person. They are usually crowded, pebbly, noisy, covered in cigarette butts and lolly sticks or stinking seaweed and on the whole disappointing. Espalmador was the exception! Ashore is a large saltpan of soft squidgy mud, which stinks of rotting vegetation. Dinghies keep going ashore and the occupants disappear into the low lying scrub looking normal and reappear coated in dark grey, stinky, mud (and not a lot else) from head to foot. They then naturally run for the sea. It looks hilarious fun but the smell is disgusting and put us off despite the health claims made for its effect on the skin. Out birding early one morning, JB fully clothed and conspicuously sporting a pair of binoculars, came across two, naked but mud clad, blokes who appeared out of the bushes. Which was the pervert?
Isla de Conejera
We left Espalmador aiming to tuck up in a cala just opposite on Ibiza but had such a good sailing breeze we kept going and rounded the tip of the island and headed NW. The tip of the island has some spectacular rocky islands and so made for a fabulous day. Of course it was boiling hot, as usual, but we managed to sail with the bimini up so managed to stay in the shade. There was a tense moment as we used a passage between two islands where there is a 15m wide bar with a depth of only 3.8m (we draw 1.7m) but it was fine. We could see Puerto San Antoni, our destination for refuelling with food and water, in the distance but it looked over developed with all high rise buildings. Figuring we could last another night we so tucked up in the curve of Isla de Conejera across the bay. With only a road, a landing stage and a lighthouse it was much more our style. We had to come in close to anchor as the water was 17 to 21m just offshore but it was worth it. Our only regret was that the jelly fish which seem to abound at the moment kept us out of the water, well me anyway. JB snorkelled and swam round them but as I had been stung on the beach on Espalmador I was not taking any chances, ouch! In the cool of the morning we walked up to the light house before setting off across the bay for much needed vittles.
Puerto Sant Antoni de Portmany
From a distance it looked over developed, touristy and awful and guess what? It is over developed, touristy and awful! And tacky, dirty and trashy with it. A kind of down market Ibiza town. The front is one long row of neon, bars, sixties apartment blocks, mini supermarkets, ‘english’ restaurants, litter etc etc – you get the picture. We even saw ‘English Pie’ on a menu – we daren’t ask. On arriving and setting the anchor (for the third time – told you the holding was bad) we found ourselves next to Pat and Norman on Jade who we met in Puerto Colum so we’ve had a boozy sociable stay. It was great to see them again, swap books and trade gossip. Pat said she’d found a laundrette so I took all our towels and sheets for a hot wash. Somehow a bucket on deck just does not ‘get your whites right’ as they say! We also sent an email off to Graham Payne (who JB bought Galatea from) about his World ARC trip in 2010 as we decided it would be a good way for JB to do the Pacific. I don’t fancy such a long distance trip (well I do, but my stomach doesn’t) but it’s been John’s ambition for years so it seems like a good solution. He knows the skipper, he knows the boat (which is a Swedish boat, similar to Galatea and just a bit larger at 40ft) and he will sail with a good crew. If it comes off I could wave him off from St Lucia in Jan 2010 and meet him in Australia in July 2010. Anyway Sant Antoni served its purpose with wifi, supermarkets and a water tap but we did not like it here so with a ‘bit of a blow’ from the N forcast for Friday we decided to move up the coast to Cala Salada and tuck in close as it has good shelter from the N.
Cala Grassio
Friday dawned and off we went. The cala was full and rolly so we looked for an alternative. We found Cala Grassio. I wish we hadn’t! Mallorcan style, we went stern to facing N upto the rocks and put out stern lines and 2 anchors. The place was deserted and pretty with only one high rise in view - perfect. By midday it was packed! Then the trouble started. The lifeguards came and said we had to move – the ‘law’ said you can not be within 50m of the coast????? Not in our pilot book it didn’t. It said swimming areas were roped off UP TO 50m from the beach and we were outside the roped off area. We argued (for this read explained about the coming gale forecast at 31knots), they got stroppy then shrugged! Eventually they left us alone. By 10pm the beach was deserted. At 11.00 we were visited by aliens! Underwater divers with powerful spotlights circled the boat for about 30mins. Until we worked out what was happening it was pretty surreal. By 2am the gale was building. But not from the N as predicted, but onto our beam. The swell was also increasing. Galatea was starting to take a bashing so JB went ashore in the dingy and changed all our lines to slip lines so we could make a quick getaway if needed. It was hairy stuff in the dark with the wind building and a pretty choppy sea. A French boat high tailed it out. We hung on, the Guru said the wind would go N at around 4am. If it didn’t we had a problem. Fortunately the Guru came up trumps, the wind veered to the N and we were sorted with Galatea trussed up like a chicken and the virtually no wind. By 9am next morning our situation got worse again. The swell started breaking over the spit to our W and Galatea started to rock and roll. So even though we were protected from the wind we knew we would have to move eventually. We monitored channel 16 and boats were in trouble all over the place. K9, a large catamaran, put out a Pan Pan but was washed up onto the rocks anyway. A May Day went out but we don’t know what happened. In the port anchors were dragging and messages were flying over the radio in every European language imaginable. Conversations with Pat and Norman on Jade kept us abreast of the goings on in San Antoni. By 1 O’clock things were settling so having established with Jade that there was room in the port we packed up and left. Phew! Very hairy!!!!
So back in San Antoni, valuable lessons learned we reacquainted ourselves with the Internet café and old friends from Puerto Colum Dianna and Bob on Sheer fantasy and planned our escape from Ibiza.
We will soon be heading back across to Majorca. Mick and Simo are heading over from Badalona so we hope to catch up with him for a few days roistering and merry making. Mick shares my passion for ice cream so we pop ashore for a quick scoop or two of an evening (much to JBs disgust).
PS We now have only 4 or 5 weeks left of this years jaunt (depending on where we end up wintering) and suddenly the clock is ticking.
It’s mercifully been cool, overcast and not so mercifully blustery here today. I had to stay onboard on watch whilst JB did the chores ashore as anchors have been dragging, tempers fraying and boats bumping. The holding is poor (just weed and rock) and the veering gusts drag any boats whose anchors are not well set. We seem OK but some boats circled for literally hours setting and resetting their anchors.
I’m also feeling a bit grotty (no not a hangover) as I have a mild tummy bug I just don’t seem to be able to shake off. It started in Andratx nearly 3 weeks ago and is resistant to my mega doses of acidophilus in an effort to get rid of it. I feel better for 3 or 4 days then have another grotty day. So I’ve had a lazy day with just water in the hope it will help.
Espalmador
On the good news front Espalmador was everything we hoped (except for the other 56 yachts and stinkpots on buoys as well.) We had 2 nights there and three days. It’s a privately owned, very low lying spit between Formetera and Ibiza with just 2 houses and a ruined watch tower. The buoys are protected to all points of the compass and there is a long, sandy beach with sugar soft sand that boats are allowed to land on. It’s the nicest beach we have seen, a real dessert island type idyll - so much so that I actually swam off the beach and sunbathed – a first for me this year as I’m not a beach person. They are usually crowded, pebbly, noisy, covered in cigarette butts and lolly sticks or stinking seaweed and on the whole disappointing. Espalmador was the exception! Ashore is a large saltpan of soft squidgy mud, which stinks of rotting vegetation. Dinghies keep going ashore and the occupants disappear into the low lying scrub looking normal and reappear coated in dark grey, stinky, mud (and not a lot else) from head to foot. They then naturally run for the sea. It looks hilarious fun but the smell is disgusting and put us off despite the health claims made for its effect on the skin. Out birding early one morning, JB fully clothed and conspicuously sporting a pair of binoculars, came across two, naked but mud clad, blokes who appeared out of the bushes. Which was the pervert?
Isla de Conejera
We left Espalmador aiming to tuck up in a cala just opposite on Ibiza but had such a good sailing breeze we kept going and rounded the tip of the island and headed NW. The tip of the island has some spectacular rocky islands and so made for a fabulous day. Of course it was boiling hot, as usual, but we managed to sail with the bimini up so managed to stay in the shade. There was a tense moment as we used a passage between two islands where there is a 15m wide bar with a depth of only 3.8m (we draw 1.7m) but it was fine. We could see Puerto San Antoni, our destination for refuelling with food and water, in the distance but it looked over developed with all high rise buildings. Figuring we could last another night we so tucked up in the curve of Isla de Conejera across the bay. With only a road, a landing stage and a lighthouse it was much more our style. We had to come in close to anchor as the water was 17 to 21m just offshore but it was worth it. Our only regret was that the jelly fish which seem to abound at the moment kept us out of the water, well me anyway. JB snorkelled and swam round them but as I had been stung on the beach on Espalmador I was not taking any chances, ouch! In the cool of the morning we walked up to the light house before setting off across the bay for much needed vittles.
Puerto Sant Antoni de Portmany
From a distance it looked over developed, touristy and awful and guess what? It is over developed, touristy and awful! And tacky, dirty and trashy with it. A kind of down market Ibiza town. The front is one long row of neon, bars, sixties apartment blocks, mini supermarkets, ‘english’ restaurants, litter etc etc – you get the picture. We even saw ‘English Pie’ on a menu – we daren’t ask. On arriving and setting the anchor (for the third time – told you the holding was bad) we found ourselves next to Pat and Norman on Jade who we met in Puerto Colum so we’ve had a boozy sociable stay. It was great to see them again, swap books and trade gossip. Pat said she’d found a laundrette so I took all our towels and sheets for a hot wash. Somehow a bucket on deck just does not ‘get your whites right’ as they say! We also sent an email off to Graham Payne (who JB bought Galatea from) about his World ARC trip in 2010 as we decided it would be a good way for JB to do the Pacific. I don’t fancy such a long distance trip (well I do, but my stomach doesn’t) but it’s been John’s ambition for years so it seems like a good solution. He knows the skipper, he knows the boat (which is a Swedish boat, similar to Galatea and just a bit larger at 40ft) and he will sail with a good crew. If it comes off I could wave him off from St Lucia in Jan 2010 and meet him in Australia in July 2010. Anyway Sant Antoni served its purpose with wifi, supermarkets and a water tap but we did not like it here so with a ‘bit of a blow’ from the N forcast for Friday we decided to move up the coast to Cala Salada and tuck in close as it has good shelter from the N.
Cala Grassio
Friday dawned and off we went. The cala was full and rolly so we looked for an alternative. We found Cala Grassio. I wish we hadn’t! Mallorcan style, we went stern to facing N upto the rocks and put out stern lines and 2 anchors. The place was deserted and pretty with only one high rise in view - perfect. By midday it was packed! Then the trouble started. The lifeguards came and said we had to move – the ‘law’ said you can not be within 50m of the coast????? Not in our pilot book it didn’t. It said swimming areas were roped off UP TO 50m from the beach and we were outside the roped off area. We argued (for this read explained about the coming gale forecast at 31knots), they got stroppy then shrugged! Eventually they left us alone. By 10pm the beach was deserted. At 11.00 we were visited by aliens! Underwater divers with powerful spotlights circled the boat for about 30mins. Until we worked out what was happening it was pretty surreal. By 2am the gale was building. But not from the N as predicted, but onto our beam. The swell was also increasing. Galatea was starting to take a bashing so JB went ashore in the dingy and changed all our lines to slip lines so we could make a quick getaway if needed. It was hairy stuff in the dark with the wind building and a pretty choppy sea. A French boat high tailed it out. We hung on, the Guru said the wind would go N at around 4am. If it didn’t we had a problem. Fortunately the Guru came up trumps, the wind veered to the N and we were sorted with Galatea trussed up like a chicken and the virtually no wind. By 9am next morning our situation got worse again. The swell started breaking over the spit to our W and Galatea started to rock and roll. So even though we were protected from the wind we knew we would have to move eventually. We monitored channel 16 and boats were in trouble all over the place. K9, a large catamaran, put out a Pan Pan but was washed up onto the rocks anyway. A May Day went out but we don’t know what happened. In the port anchors were dragging and messages were flying over the radio in every European language imaginable. Conversations with Pat and Norman on Jade kept us abreast of the goings on in San Antoni. By 1 O’clock things were settling so having established with Jade that there was room in the port we packed up and left. Phew! Very hairy!!!!
So back in San Antoni, valuable lessons learned we reacquainted ourselves with the Internet café and old friends from Puerto Colum Dianna and Bob on Sheer fantasy and planned our escape from Ibiza.
We will soon be heading back across to Majorca. Mick and Simo are heading over from Badalona so we hope to catch up with him for a few days roistering and merry making. Mick shares my passion for ice cream so we pop ashore for a quick scoop or two of an evening (much to JBs disgust).
PS We now have only 4 or 5 weeks left of this years jaunt (depending on where we end up wintering) and suddenly the clock is ticking.
Friday 8th August 2008 - On Balearics, Posidonia Buoy No B7, Calo de s ‘Oli, Formentera Island
Since our last update we seem to have been moving between ever-smaller Islands and ‘people watching’ has become and entertaining and rewarding pass time. Every age, nationality and social class is out on the water around the Balearic Islands and it makes for fascinating watching. Beats EastEnders, Corrie and Emmerdale hands down.
Cabrera was an experience. As a ‘Parc Nacional’ it’s very heavily protected and supposed to be idyllic and isolated.
To stay overnight you have to book a buoy as no one is allowed to anchor to avoid damage to the seabed – great idea. But the system is not run or policed properly and you are not allocated an actual buoy so it’s a bun fight. By day the buoys are a free for all and ‘day’ visitors (those without a permit) SHOULD leave by 19.00 – ha ha ha ha. As you can’t tell who is who, the day visitors stay put hoping that they have got lucky and found a buoy that’s not been booked. The warden then goes around in a dingy and turfs them off. All the time new boats are arriving and so if they are nearer they get the buoy. In the end being polite, and British, and so waiting 2 hours we had an all out race with 2 other boats for a buoy. It was chaos, the air was blue and we needed a large GnT.
The island itself boasts an impressive looking (but not actually) castle, 80% of the worlds blue lizard population, some scrubby vegetation, scattered pine trees, a small basic bar, a few houses, some uninteresting ruins, rutted, badly maintained roads, a large solar array, a never ending parade of battered 4 wheel drives, an uninspiring and not very informative museum, a handful of soldiers, the same number of rabbits, and more wardens than you could shake a stick at. Everything was ‘not permitted’. Even to walk out to the light house you had to get a permit signed by the head warden.
We did the usual (along with the hoards – tour boats arrive at regular intervals). A walk up to the castle, a walk (nearly) out to the lighthouse (it was way too hot), a walk to and around the museum. We lounged around in the bar (bit like a cantina in an old Western and just as cliquey) and swam. The water was crystal clear so it was lovely and the island its self was a unique setting but the way its managed, the huge number of visitors and the fact that the so called ‘guardians’ don’t practice what they preach and tear around in gas guzzlers spoilt what could have been a special stay. The other fly in the ointment was that JB wrestled a jellyfish and lost, so we whipped him across to see the doc. It got us an extra nights stay though – usually in high season you are only allowed one night.
On the Wednesday we had a fantastic sail back to the mainland and were joined for a while by a pod of huge dolphins. There were about 30 of them heading on a reciprocal course. Some broke away from the group and played on the bow . It was amazing! It is almost impossible to describe the feeling you get when these lithe, playful powerhouses let you share their fun for a while. For me it is totally awe inspiring and uplifting. Sorry for the flowery stuff but that IS how you feel. You feel you have lost something infinitely precious when they leave.
Next Island was Ibiza, after a 12 hour sail across from Colonia de Sant Jordi. We set off at 7.00am and arrived at the N end of the island around 20.00. There was too much swell in our first choice of anchorage so we motored S to Cala Boix, a small ‘c’ shaped cala with high sides and a small beach café. To one side is cap Roig, huge towering cliffs with an improbable road winding up it (private of course, though we did sneak up the first 500m on our morning pre coffee walk). As it was Sunday by midday it was packed and we had to get 2 stinkpots to move to get the anchor up when we left around 15.00 heading SW down the island. The swell, that had made the night uncomfortable, ran right down the coast so JB decided we would have to round the most Southerly tip to get a good nights kip.
We sailed passed Puerto de Sant Eulalia, which looked like it had a nice old town on a tump (next to miles of modern sprawl), and then Ibiza town (Eivissa), before coming into Ensa de la Canal and Ses Salines (The saltpans) where we found more Posidonia Life buoys with some free ones so we promptly bagged one. Fantastic. The downside was that being so close to Ibiza (clubbing capital of Europe) the beautiful sandy beach has become an extension to the clubs. There were three large (and expensive) beach bars all vying musically for attention and the beach was carpeted with bronzed (Mediterranean) and lobster pink (UK) bodies, D&G sunglasses, designer thongs, Chanel bags (fake?) and cigarette butts. ‘Posing’ was the order of the day and boy could they pose. At night they all seemed to doss on the ‘protected’ dunes at the back of the beach. Tattoos seem to be de rigueur along with designer stubble, artfully tousled hair and the odd piercing. Fascinating to watch but a bit noisy when you wanted to settle down for a kip. One night there was a live band playing club versions of covers with electric violins or fiddles – they were great.
From here we taxied into Ibiza and were pleasantly surprised by the old town. Well worth a visit with huge fortified walls, winding streets of steps that culminate (predictably) in a church at the top. Lots of picturesque houses all piled on top of each other and a warren of alleys and narrow staircases. Often the houses look in a poor state of repair and so we were surprised when one expat we spoke to assured us that property prices were extortionate. Around the port, home of designer boutiques, tattoo parlours, sunglasses shops and clubs, it was dirty and over commercialised with groups of people, who made me feel like a granny, wearing very little (with attitude) and roaming in packs. We popped into an Internet café to check the weather and emails and requested a Posidonia Life buoy for the Island of Espalmador for Friday 8th for 2 nights. Supposed to be one of the nicest (and most popular) anchorages in the area and in big demand so not too hopeful. The view from the castle was spectacular, right out over Espalmador and Formentera and of course the M25. Yes M25! The water between Ibiza town and the islands was clogged with boats of every size and description. There were over 70 in view at any one time. I have never seen so many boats out all at sea at once. Over the next few days we learned that in a morning they all rush off out to the islands and adjacent calas and then at night they all rush back in. Between 18.00 and 20.00 the wash created by the powerboats returning home at speed is unbelievable making even the best anchorage uncomfortable until it settles around 22.00. You try cooking supper in that!
Our next island was Formentera. A bit like the Scilly Isles, very low lying, but hotter. We came up trumps with another Posidonia Life buoy in Calo de s’Oli just of the main port of Puerto de Sabina. We had our own little private beach and swimming was heaven. You could snorkel for hours watching the fish and when you got bored with that you could hide behind sunglasses and a hat and peek at the naked bodies on every yacht, the beach, walking along the coast or swimming. It’s a bit much! I am not a prude but believe there is a time and place for everything, where as here the philosophy seems to be: show everything, any time and place. The town is small and inevitably touristy but still nice with a large marina and harbour dominating the front. Ferries of all sizes constantly come in and out and I should imagine the anchorage just off the harbour entrance is untenable due to swell from the wash of these monsters. Although the place is full of young people on scooters it has a totally different feel from the slightly desperate main town of Ibiza. A lot more relaxed and carefree. We found a lovely hostel with a large shady terrace and views out over a large inland lagoon for breakfast. It was boiling and so every few minutes the whole place was sprayed with a fine mist of water from nozzles in the ceiling. Weird at first but fantastically cooling once you were used to it. Using their Internet we confirmed our booking for Espalmador – yipeee!
Since scooters seemed to be ‘the thing’ (I have never seen so many in one place) we hired one for the day and explored the whole island. Fantastic fun (and sore bums) were had by all. We had lunch of huge moules marinier in a tomato, herb and garlic sauce served in big terracotta pots on a terrace looking North down the whole island. Afterwards we discovered lots of ‘green’ roads’ (bumpy and unmade), salt pans, unspoilt farming areas and the fact that the scooter had no rear suspension to speak of. It had done 23000 km - on an island 10miles long by 8miles wide??? The day was most satisfactorily concluded with GnTs iced margaritas on the terrace at the hostel. Back to bread and jam and water for the next few weeks!
Later today we head off to our booked buoy on Espalmador. Its supposed to be even nicer than here. Can’t wait.
PS The blue Balearic lizards on Cabrera were stunning to look at, prolific and so tame. John had them crawling over his feet and bags. We took loads of pictures so can bore everyone when we get back.
Cabrera was an experience. As a ‘Parc Nacional’ it’s very heavily protected and supposed to be idyllic and isolated.
To stay overnight you have to book a buoy as no one is allowed to anchor to avoid damage to the seabed – great idea. But the system is not run or policed properly and you are not allocated an actual buoy so it’s a bun fight. By day the buoys are a free for all and ‘day’ visitors (those without a permit) SHOULD leave by 19.00 – ha ha ha ha. As you can’t tell who is who, the day visitors stay put hoping that they have got lucky and found a buoy that’s not been booked. The warden then goes around in a dingy and turfs them off. All the time new boats are arriving and so if they are nearer they get the buoy. In the end being polite, and British, and so waiting 2 hours we had an all out race with 2 other boats for a buoy. It was chaos, the air was blue and we needed a large GnT.
The island itself boasts an impressive looking (but not actually) castle, 80% of the worlds blue lizard population, some scrubby vegetation, scattered pine trees, a small basic bar, a few houses, some uninteresting ruins, rutted, badly maintained roads, a large solar array, a never ending parade of battered 4 wheel drives, an uninspiring and not very informative museum, a handful of soldiers, the same number of rabbits, and more wardens than you could shake a stick at. Everything was ‘not permitted’. Even to walk out to the light house you had to get a permit signed by the head warden.
We did the usual (along with the hoards – tour boats arrive at regular intervals). A walk up to the castle, a walk (nearly) out to the lighthouse (it was way too hot), a walk to and around the museum. We lounged around in the bar (bit like a cantina in an old Western and just as cliquey) and swam. The water was crystal clear so it was lovely and the island its self was a unique setting but the way its managed, the huge number of visitors and the fact that the so called ‘guardians’ don’t practice what they preach and tear around in gas guzzlers spoilt what could have been a special stay. The other fly in the ointment was that JB wrestled a jellyfish and lost, so we whipped him across to see the doc. It got us an extra nights stay though – usually in high season you are only allowed one night.
On the Wednesday we had a fantastic sail back to the mainland and were joined for a while by a pod of huge dolphins. There were about 30 of them heading on a reciprocal course. Some broke away from the group and played on the bow . It was amazing! It is almost impossible to describe the feeling you get when these lithe, playful powerhouses let you share their fun for a while. For me it is totally awe inspiring and uplifting. Sorry for the flowery stuff but that IS how you feel. You feel you have lost something infinitely precious when they leave.
Next Island was Ibiza, after a 12 hour sail across from Colonia de Sant Jordi. We set off at 7.00am and arrived at the N end of the island around 20.00. There was too much swell in our first choice of anchorage so we motored S to Cala Boix, a small ‘c’ shaped cala with high sides and a small beach café. To one side is cap Roig, huge towering cliffs with an improbable road winding up it (private of course, though we did sneak up the first 500m on our morning pre coffee walk). As it was Sunday by midday it was packed and we had to get 2 stinkpots to move to get the anchor up when we left around 15.00 heading SW down the island. The swell, that had made the night uncomfortable, ran right down the coast so JB decided we would have to round the most Southerly tip to get a good nights kip.
We sailed passed Puerto de Sant Eulalia, which looked like it had a nice old town on a tump (next to miles of modern sprawl), and then Ibiza town (Eivissa), before coming into Ensa de la Canal and Ses Salines (The saltpans) where we found more Posidonia Life buoys with some free ones so we promptly bagged one. Fantastic. The downside was that being so close to Ibiza (clubbing capital of Europe) the beautiful sandy beach has become an extension to the clubs. There were three large (and expensive) beach bars all vying musically for attention and the beach was carpeted with bronzed (Mediterranean) and lobster pink (UK) bodies, D&G sunglasses, designer thongs, Chanel bags (fake?) and cigarette butts. ‘Posing’ was the order of the day and boy could they pose. At night they all seemed to doss on the ‘protected’ dunes at the back of the beach. Tattoos seem to be de rigueur along with designer stubble, artfully tousled hair and the odd piercing. Fascinating to watch but a bit noisy when you wanted to settle down for a kip. One night there was a live band playing club versions of covers with electric violins or fiddles – they were great.
From here we taxied into Ibiza and were pleasantly surprised by the old town. Well worth a visit with huge fortified walls, winding streets of steps that culminate (predictably) in a church at the top. Lots of picturesque houses all piled on top of each other and a warren of alleys and narrow staircases. Often the houses look in a poor state of repair and so we were surprised when one expat we spoke to assured us that property prices were extortionate. Around the port, home of designer boutiques, tattoo parlours, sunglasses shops and clubs, it was dirty and over commercialised with groups of people, who made me feel like a granny, wearing very little (with attitude) and roaming in packs. We popped into an Internet café to check the weather and emails and requested a Posidonia Life buoy for the Island of Espalmador for Friday 8th for 2 nights. Supposed to be one of the nicest (and most popular) anchorages in the area and in big demand so not too hopeful. The view from the castle was spectacular, right out over Espalmador and Formentera and of course the M25. Yes M25! The water between Ibiza town and the islands was clogged with boats of every size and description. There were over 70 in view at any one time. I have never seen so many boats out all at sea at once. Over the next few days we learned that in a morning they all rush off out to the islands and adjacent calas and then at night they all rush back in. Between 18.00 and 20.00 the wash created by the powerboats returning home at speed is unbelievable making even the best anchorage uncomfortable until it settles around 22.00. You try cooking supper in that!
Our next island was Formentera. A bit like the Scilly Isles, very low lying, but hotter. We came up trumps with another Posidonia Life buoy in Calo de s’Oli just of the main port of Puerto de Sabina. We had our own little private beach and swimming was heaven. You could snorkel for hours watching the fish and when you got bored with that you could hide behind sunglasses and a hat and peek at the naked bodies on every yacht, the beach, walking along the coast or swimming. It’s a bit much! I am not a prude but believe there is a time and place for everything, where as here the philosophy seems to be: show everything, any time and place. The town is small and inevitably touristy but still nice with a large marina and harbour dominating the front. Ferries of all sizes constantly come in and out and I should imagine the anchorage just off the harbour entrance is untenable due to swell from the wash of these monsters. Although the place is full of young people on scooters it has a totally different feel from the slightly desperate main town of Ibiza. A lot more relaxed and carefree. We found a lovely hostel with a large shady terrace and views out over a large inland lagoon for breakfast. It was boiling and so every few minutes the whole place was sprayed with a fine mist of water from nozzles in the ceiling. Weird at first but fantastically cooling once you were used to it. Using their Internet we confirmed our booking for Espalmador – yipeee!
Since scooters seemed to be ‘the thing’ (I have never seen so many in one place) we hired one for the day and explored the whole island. Fantastic fun (and sore bums) were had by all. We had lunch of huge moules marinier in a tomato, herb and garlic sauce served in big terracotta pots on a terrace looking North down the whole island. Afterwards we discovered lots of ‘green’ roads’ (bumpy and unmade), salt pans, unspoilt farming areas and the fact that the scooter had no rear suspension to speak of. It had done 23000 km - on an island 10miles long by 8miles wide??? The day was most satisfactorily concluded with GnTs iced margaritas on the terrace at the hostel. Back to bread and jam and water for the next few weeks!
Later today we head off to our booked buoy on Espalmador. Its supposed to be even nicer than here. Can’t wait.
PS The blue Balearic lizards on Cabrera were stunning to look at, prolific and so tame. John had them crawling over his feet and bags. We took loads of pictures so can bore everyone when we get back.
Sunday 27th July - At anchor Playa des Cabo, SE of Colonia de Sant Jordi, South Eastern tip of Mallorca
10 days since the last update and they couldn't have been more different from the preceding few weeks. Having left Puerto Colum, as planned, we set off SE to the SE tip of Mallorca then round it and NW up the South coast to Puerto Andraitx at the far Western end. Here we did an about face and retracing our steps going SE are back on the SE tip awaiting our long anticipated trip to Cabrera tomorrow. We have moved on every day with a new anchorage every night till last night and the weather has been consistently hot, clear bright sunshine and light breezes.
JB is now a rich, dark mahogany and I am a golden, honey colour despite the fact that neither of us sunbathe. No, not once...honest! The mozzies have let up down the SE tip of the island so I am not quite as spotty and we don't have to exercise such rigorous anti mozzie regimens. I am becoming sick of the smell of Citronella. JB decided for some reason to kick a rock whilst our birding last week. He swears it’s just bruised. I say it’s broken. You be the judge. It is swollen to twice its size, blue, black, green, yellow and purple and he can't get his shoes on or walk Case made! With all the swimming we are doing and our healthy eating we SHOULD be getting slim and fit. Hmmmm notice the use of the word 'should'. I don't feel any slimmer and JB certainly does not look it to me although he swears he is. However a tan works wonders for the ego and you sure need it around here. Wall to wall 'totty' for the guys and 'eye candy' for the ladies and much of it nude or semi nude. Especially if it’s German.
We have got the hang of the way the weeks work now avoiding small, popular anchorages on week ends when the world and it's uncle are out on the water and the charter boat crews arrive. We really noticed a big difference as June moved into July. The number of boats trebled and charter boats appeared in droves. You can spot them a mile off. They are usually of a similar size and make and have more than their fair share of people on board. Anchoring is always done far too fast, with several peeps on the foredeck and lots of arm waving and shouting. Of course I'm generalising, there are some very experienced folks who charter but I guess you don't notice them as much as they just quietly and professionally get things done. We just keep everything crossed that we don't get a novice charter crew too close to us as we can't risk Galatea being bumped or bashed. (also we don't want the ensuing shouting matches that erupt when boats bump when they swing and the inexperienced crew have not put enough chain out) You can have hours of free entertainment at other peoples expense and woe betide anyone who tries to 'help'! Ouch!
Our days usually start with an early swim in crystal, turquoise waters followed by breakfast of fruit or croissants. If we are not sailing that day and there is a beach cafe we go ashore for morning coffee and explore the rocks, coves, beaches and cliffs around whichever anchorage we are in. Lunch is back on the boat and is usually salad, french bread, olives, cheese or chorizo. The afternoons are boiling so if we aren't sailing it’s a nap or reading or listening to talking books in the shade of the cockpit. Early evenings are spent swimming, socialising, cooking followed by supper of fresh, local fish, paella or hot chicken salad (and a good bottle of local cheap plonk - we can get really drinkable Cava here for about 1.80 Euros a bottle) then a walk ashore in the cool of the dusk or a movie on the laptop. Occasionally JB thrashes me at cards but seeing as I am so rubbish at it that’s nothing for him to brag about. Last thing we sit with a Fundador (local brandy) in the cockpit and well... just sit. It’s soooooo lovely, cool, soft velvety breezes. water lapping gently and stars twinkling. Pure magic.
From Puerto Colum we went to Puerto Petro, a very picturesque, up market cala on the E coast. We stayed on a buoy managed by Balearics Life Posidonia. They put in buoys to stop anchoring in areas where the rare seaweed Posidonia can be found but you have to book them 3 days in advance 'online' or by phone. Really handy for boats then???? Luckily one was free and we got 2 nights there. Its really picture postcard village but very expensive. It has high rocks at the seaward side which gradually drop to the village. Big private villas abound on the surrounding slopes.
From there moved S to Cala Caragol just around the point, Punta Salinas. We anchored in big wide sandy bay backed by pinewoods and the swimming was lovely.
The next night was spent at anchor where we are now but being mid-week it was a lot quieter than it was here yesterday. Its a very large sandy bay with low lying islands in the bay blocking the swell from the sea. Anchoring is over sand, weed and rock and there is space for everyone. It’s a bit of a hike into Colonia Sant Jordi so not good for provisioning up. We had gone there as hopping off point to the island of Cabrera (Park Nacional de Cabrera) but found we did not have a permit yet but did have one very stroppy Skiper. Visits to the Capitanerie (harbour Master) and National park centre in Colonia Sant Jordi were no help so having filled in and faxed a new application for next week (bloody red tape - why couldn't they just change the date on our original application?) we decided to go to the head office in Palma in person and get our permit ourselves. SO, WE HAD A PLAN - on to Palma.
But first we anchored for the night off Playa del Trench. A huge crescent of sand with shallow turquoise water. Heaven. Until JB kicked the rock that is. The next night, and half way to Palma, was on another Balearics Life Poseidon buoy at Cala Blanes just into the bay of Palma after good days sailing. Bit of an odd neither here nor there place but OK for the night. Up early next morning and we motored across Palma Bay straight to the foot of the Cathedral. We dropped anchor just off the breakwater and JB dinged me ashore. I was a woman with a mission - and we had to be off by lunchtime as the wind was due to kick in onshore. Not a good place to be anchored. Of course JB couldn’t go, as he could not walk with his 'bruised' toe. It was boiling in Palma, I nearly melted but returned triumphant with the permit plus flip flops the Skipper could get on and an alloy, folding bike from El Corte d' Ingles so he could get about if he needed to. Alan and Pauline of Wanaka told us about them and we had been looking for ages. Plus they were in the sale so excellent value. It was great zooming around the streets of Palma on it. Back at the boat was another matter! The wind had kicked in and the chop was up. Getting it onboard was not easy. But we made it and were off across the bay whilst a yacht race took place out to sea. Colourful spinnakers dotted the horizon and helicopters followed the action. We were headed SE to an anchorage behind Las Illetas.
On arrival it was packed and the holding was not good. As the day boats left we re-positioned and eventually there was just two boats overnight. A real contrast to the daytime melee. Trying to anchor amidst swimmers, jet skis, pedaloes, snorkelers, water skiers, stink pots, luxury 70ft yachts, racing yachts who dropped out from the race and livaboards is nerve wracking to say the least. It was a disappointing spot surrounded by towering blocks of apartments and plagued by rolly swell all night. Time to go.
First thing we crossed to Cala Portals and as we were there by 9.30 we got a good spot. A lovely 3-prong cala surrounded by weathered, high cliffs and with a small private harbour at one side. Some large properties to the NE, 4 small beaches and 2 beach bars. On the seaward cliffs were three huge carved square openings in the rock. Supposedly Phoenician Tombs we resolved to explore them later. But first coffee! So into the dingy for a trip ashore. As we closed the beach of our choice we suddenly noticed a lot of people were semi nude. No nude. No! All he people were nude - totally! We’d picked the nudist beach and not wanting to look like country bumpkins pressed on. Where do you look? After coffee and ice cream - nudists must be really wealthy as the bill was 17 Euros. We explored the cliffs but headed back to Galatea as the anchorage filled up. Even when there was no room they still kept coming and were determined to come in. We had to fend off a huge UK stinkpot, and Irish stink pot, 8 young Spaniard blokes in a large catamaran and various smaller craft who all tried to anchor too close. It’s amazing what you can do with a few filthy looks and 'helpful' hints but it was a bit stressy. By nightfall there were only 6 of us but the evening as too rolly to be good. Next morning we explored the tombs, but whilst were impressed by their scope and size were put off by the litter, vandalism, graffiti their obvious use as a doss house and public toilet. I can't imagine letting anything that unique being allowed to be spoilt in that way. It’s such a shame.
We now needed vittals and water so next night headed for Puerto Andraitx. A lot had changed there since we were there last year. Work on putting new pontoons in the inner harbour has restricted the anchoring space but we managed OK in the end after moving into a space vacated by two shouting, fist waving boats whose anchors had fouled. A trip ashore included home made ice-cream and the supermarket before getting back on board. I have to say a little worse for wear. In the high hills and cliffs around Andraitx the heat was magnified and it was baking hot. JB cooked supper whilst I went for a swim to cool off but I did not feel well. Next morning we went to the fuel quay for water only to find several boats circling. JB did a sneaky and went alongside a yacht on the town quay so we could fill up. The downside was we were grabbed by an irate official telling us we could not moor there and making us pay for the water. We were also accosted by a brisling mustachioed bloke from Norway who knew Galatea and her previous owner. He did the ARC at the same time and we keen to let us know that his boat had beaten Galatea.
So now we are back at Playa des Cabo after a stonking days sail East, back across the S coast and eagerly awaiting our departure for Cabrera in the morning. It better be worth it!
JB is now a rich, dark mahogany and I am a golden, honey colour despite the fact that neither of us sunbathe. No, not once...honest! The mozzies have let up down the SE tip of the island so I am not quite as spotty and we don't have to exercise such rigorous anti mozzie regimens. I am becoming sick of the smell of Citronella. JB decided for some reason to kick a rock whilst our birding last week. He swears it’s just bruised. I say it’s broken. You be the judge. It is swollen to twice its size, blue, black, green, yellow and purple and he can't get his shoes on or walk Case made! With all the swimming we are doing and our healthy eating we SHOULD be getting slim and fit. Hmmmm notice the use of the word 'should'. I don't feel any slimmer and JB certainly does not look it to me although he swears he is. However a tan works wonders for the ego and you sure need it around here. Wall to wall 'totty' for the guys and 'eye candy' for the ladies and much of it nude or semi nude. Especially if it’s German.
We have got the hang of the way the weeks work now avoiding small, popular anchorages on week ends when the world and it's uncle are out on the water and the charter boat crews arrive. We really noticed a big difference as June moved into July. The number of boats trebled and charter boats appeared in droves. You can spot them a mile off. They are usually of a similar size and make and have more than their fair share of people on board. Anchoring is always done far too fast, with several peeps on the foredeck and lots of arm waving and shouting. Of course I'm generalising, there are some very experienced folks who charter but I guess you don't notice them as much as they just quietly and professionally get things done. We just keep everything crossed that we don't get a novice charter crew too close to us as we can't risk Galatea being bumped or bashed. (also we don't want the ensuing shouting matches that erupt when boats bump when they swing and the inexperienced crew have not put enough chain out) You can have hours of free entertainment at other peoples expense and woe betide anyone who tries to 'help'! Ouch!
Our days usually start with an early swim in crystal, turquoise waters followed by breakfast of fruit or croissants. If we are not sailing that day and there is a beach cafe we go ashore for morning coffee and explore the rocks, coves, beaches and cliffs around whichever anchorage we are in. Lunch is back on the boat and is usually salad, french bread, olives, cheese or chorizo. The afternoons are boiling so if we aren't sailing it’s a nap or reading or listening to talking books in the shade of the cockpit. Early evenings are spent swimming, socialising, cooking followed by supper of fresh, local fish, paella or hot chicken salad (and a good bottle of local cheap plonk - we can get really drinkable Cava here for about 1.80 Euros a bottle) then a walk ashore in the cool of the dusk or a movie on the laptop. Occasionally JB thrashes me at cards but seeing as I am so rubbish at it that’s nothing for him to brag about. Last thing we sit with a Fundador (local brandy) in the cockpit and well... just sit. It’s soooooo lovely, cool, soft velvety breezes. water lapping gently and stars twinkling. Pure magic.
From Puerto Colum we went to Puerto Petro, a very picturesque, up market cala on the E coast. We stayed on a buoy managed by Balearics Life Posidonia. They put in buoys to stop anchoring in areas where the rare seaweed Posidonia can be found but you have to book them 3 days in advance 'online' or by phone. Really handy for boats then???? Luckily one was free and we got 2 nights there. Its really picture postcard village but very expensive. It has high rocks at the seaward side which gradually drop to the village. Big private villas abound on the surrounding slopes.
From there moved S to Cala Caragol just around the point, Punta Salinas. We anchored in big wide sandy bay backed by pinewoods and the swimming was lovely.
The next night was spent at anchor where we are now but being mid-week it was a lot quieter than it was here yesterday. Its a very large sandy bay with low lying islands in the bay blocking the swell from the sea. Anchoring is over sand, weed and rock and there is space for everyone. It’s a bit of a hike into Colonia Sant Jordi so not good for provisioning up. We had gone there as hopping off point to the island of Cabrera (Park Nacional de Cabrera) but found we did not have a permit yet but did have one very stroppy Skiper. Visits to the Capitanerie (harbour Master) and National park centre in Colonia Sant Jordi were no help so having filled in and faxed a new application for next week (bloody red tape - why couldn't they just change the date on our original application?) we decided to go to the head office in Palma in person and get our permit ourselves. SO, WE HAD A PLAN - on to Palma.
But first we anchored for the night off Playa del Trench. A huge crescent of sand with shallow turquoise water. Heaven. Until JB kicked the rock that is. The next night, and half way to Palma, was on another Balearics Life Poseidon buoy at Cala Blanes just into the bay of Palma after good days sailing. Bit of an odd neither here nor there place but OK for the night. Up early next morning and we motored across Palma Bay straight to the foot of the Cathedral. We dropped anchor just off the breakwater and JB dinged me ashore. I was a woman with a mission - and we had to be off by lunchtime as the wind was due to kick in onshore. Not a good place to be anchored. Of course JB couldn’t go, as he could not walk with his 'bruised' toe. It was boiling in Palma, I nearly melted but returned triumphant with the permit plus flip flops the Skipper could get on and an alloy, folding bike from El Corte d' Ingles so he could get about if he needed to. Alan and Pauline of Wanaka told us about them and we had been looking for ages. Plus they were in the sale so excellent value. It was great zooming around the streets of Palma on it. Back at the boat was another matter! The wind had kicked in and the chop was up. Getting it onboard was not easy. But we made it and were off across the bay whilst a yacht race took place out to sea. Colourful spinnakers dotted the horizon and helicopters followed the action. We were headed SE to an anchorage behind Las Illetas.
On arrival it was packed and the holding was not good. As the day boats left we re-positioned and eventually there was just two boats overnight. A real contrast to the daytime melee. Trying to anchor amidst swimmers, jet skis, pedaloes, snorkelers, water skiers, stink pots, luxury 70ft yachts, racing yachts who dropped out from the race and livaboards is nerve wracking to say the least. It was a disappointing spot surrounded by towering blocks of apartments and plagued by rolly swell all night. Time to go.
First thing we crossed to Cala Portals and as we were there by 9.30 we got a good spot. A lovely 3-prong cala surrounded by weathered, high cliffs and with a small private harbour at one side. Some large properties to the NE, 4 small beaches and 2 beach bars. On the seaward cliffs were three huge carved square openings in the rock. Supposedly Phoenician Tombs we resolved to explore them later. But first coffee! So into the dingy for a trip ashore. As we closed the beach of our choice we suddenly noticed a lot of people were semi nude. No nude. No! All he people were nude - totally! We’d picked the nudist beach and not wanting to look like country bumpkins pressed on. Where do you look? After coffee and ice cream - nudists must be really wealthy as the bill was 17 Euros. We explored the cliffs but headed back to Galatea as the anchorage filled up. Even when there was no room they still kept coming and were determined to come in. We had to fend off a huge UK stinkpot, and Irish stink pot, 8 young Spaniard blokes in a large catamaran and various smaller craft who all tried to anchor too close. It’s amazing what you can do with a few filthy looks and 'helpful' hints but it was a bit stressy. By nightfall there were only 6 of us but the evening as too rolly to be good. Next morning we explored the tombs, but whilst were impressed by their scope and size were put off by the litter, vandalism, graffiti their obvious use as a doss house and public toilet. I can't imagine letting anything that unique being allowed to be spoilt in that way. It’s such a shame.
We now needed vittals and water so next night headed for Puerto Andraitx. A lot had changed there since we were there last year. Work on putting new pontoons in the inner harbour has restricted the anchoring space but we managed OK in the end after moving into a space vacated by two shouting, fist waving boats whose anchors had fouled. A trip ashore included home made ice-cream and the supermarket before getting back on board. I have to say a little worse for wear. In the high hills and cliffs around Andraitx the heat was magnified and it was baking hot. JB cooked supper whilst I went for a swim to cool off but I did not feel well. Next morning we went to the fuel quay for water only to find several boats circling. JB did a sneaky and went alongside a yacht on the town quay so we could fill up. The downside was we were grabbed by an irate official telling us we could not moor there and making us pay for the water. We were also accosted by a brisling mustachioed bloke from Norway who knew Galatea and her previous owner. He did the ARC at the same time and we keen to let us know that his boat had beaten Galatea.
So now we are back at Playa des Cabo after a stonking days sail East, back across the S coast and eagerly awaiting our departure for Cabrera in the morning. It better be worth it!
11 July - Puerto Colum, Mallorca
Birthday Girl here in sunny, boiling (33 degrees) Bar Fidel, Puerto Column. Many thanks to all who phoned/emailed etc with Birthday wishes – it’s nice that you remembered and I’m not a Billy no mates.
Despite my lovely birthday (more of thet later) its not been a good week. Big pomputer on boat has fallen over and we don’t think its repairable and having hiked to an Internet café in the oven we can’t get into our yahoo mail. To make it worse JB dropped his best knife over the side then lost a key bit of our scuba equipment diving for the knife. I felt sea sick sailing down here ON MY BIRTHDAY would you believe? No justice there then! We then ought some yacht bits in a shop then I lost them on the way home. Bad things do not only come in threes – there’s the proof!
On the plus side we have stayed in two very scenic, isolated anchorages on our trip around the coast. We went from Puerto Pollenca across Alcudia Bay on the first day and then next morning hopped around the point to a tiny turquoise Cala under an abandoned watch tower.
I had a lovely Birthday there. We awoke early. You have to if you want to do anything as its far too hot to do anything other than sweat after 10.30am. I had a carefully wrapped prezzie on my pillow from guess who. It is a very contemporary string of coral and silver wire. We went without breakfast to go ashore early and walked up the ridge through pine forests and explored the tower. The walls were over 10ft thick and it was still in good condition. Very atmospheric. We then swam in crystal tuquoise water with hundreds of little fishes and had breakfast before weighing anchor and heading for Puerto Colum. Charles and Louisa called to wish me happy birthday which was such a treat. We arrived in Puerto Colum after a less than satisfactory sail (the wind was on the nose so we had to put the donk/engine on)) around 4.00pm and put on our glad rags for a birthday meal in a local café on the water front. Am I spoilt or what?
We love it here. It’s a more original Mallorcan town than Purto Pollenca and we can anchor in a large, virtually land locked bay so its safe from any wind direction other than West. Also the absence of a flash marina makes it more of a sailing place than a ‘stink pot’ (Motor boat) place. Unfortunately there is also an absence of a good supermarket and free Internet access. We have found Café Fidel with wifi but the music is too loud and the drinks are much dinero!!!!
Yesterday we had a ‘big day out’ and took the bus to Palma. The 1hr journey took 2hrs, the bus was boiling and cramped and we were outnumbered by young, female, nubile, blonde Germans. John was not complaining. It’s a fascinating city when you get away from the ‘touristy’ bits on the front and I found an amazing Chocolate factory which made my day. We also took in the Gallery of Contemporary arts and an exhibition of Etruscan artefacts. Not to mention several bars and cafes. JB used to sail from Palma as crew on a 100ft yacht called Puritan and I used to come here as Art Director on shoots for GUS so the whole day was a bit of a ‘blast from the past”.
Our run of bad luck seems to have stayed with us though. On Monday our fridge packed up. Just after a major shop for fresh fruit, cheese, meat fish (I think you get the picture.) Its 33 degrees here and the thought of getting through a day without a cold beer!!!! It does not bear thinking about. Anyway to cut a long story shrt we did some frantic phoning around, got some contacts in Palma, hired a car and hared off to Palma for the day. We found a company who can come and fit new stuff (the other was fitted when Galatea was made 20years ago so its not worth fixing) but now we have to sit here and wait until the parts arrive. All €1500 of them!!!! Extortion.
Its such a shame as we had planned to move South this week and visit the Isla Cabrera, just off Palma. It’s a National Park and supposed to be totally unspoilt and idyllic. Never mind we can go once the fridge is fixed. (And restocked with beer!) We are making good use of or time here with early morning and late night walks, lots of swimming and topping up the tan. JB is already mahogany and I am definitely going brown (at least on all the bits between my mozzie bites anyway).
Will let you know how the fridge repair goes in the next update. Gosh don’t we lead exciting lives? – the most memorable event this week is the fridge breaking down.
Despite my lovely birthday (more of thet later) its not been a good week. Big pomputer on boat has fallen over and we don’t think its repairable and having hiked to an Internet café in the oven we can’t get into our yahoo mail. To make it worse JB dropped his best knife over the side then lost a key bit of our scuba equipment diving for the knife. I felt sea sick sailing down here ON MY BIRTHDAY would you believe? No justice there then! We then ought some yacht bits in a shop then I lost them on the way home. Bad things do not only come in threes – there’s the proof!
On the plus side we have stayed in two very scenic, isolated anchorages on our trip around the coast. We went from Puerto Pollenca across Alcudia Bay on the first day and then next morning hopped around the point to a tiny turquoise Cala under an abandoned watch tower.
I had a lovely Birthday there. We awoke early. You have to if you want to do anything as its far too hot to do anything other than sweat after 10.30am. I had a carefully wrapped prezzie on my pillow from guess who. It is a very contemporary string of coral and silver wire. We went without breakfast to go ashore early and walked up the ridge through pine forests and explored the tower. The walls were over 10ft thick and it was still in good condition. Very atmospheric. We then swam in crystal tuquoise water with hundreds of little fishes and had breakfast before weighing anchor and heading for Puerto Colum. Charles and Louisa called to wish me happy birthday which was such a treat. We arrived in Puerto Colum after a less than satisfactory sail (the wind was on the nose so we had to put the donk/engine on)) around 4.00pm and put on our glad rags for a birthday meal in a local café on the water front. Am I spoilt or what?
We love it here. It’s a more original Mallorcan town than Purto Pollenca and we can anchor in a large, virtually land locked bay so its safe from any wind direction other than West. Also the absence of a flash marina makes it more of a sailing place than a ‘stink pot’ (Motor boat) place. Unfortunately there is also an absence of a good supermarket and free Internet access. We have found Café Fidel with wifi but the music is too loud and the drinks are much dinero!!!!
Yesterday we had a ‘big day out’ and took the bus to Palma. The 1hr journey took 2hrs, the bus was boiling and cramped and we were outnumbered by young, female, nubile, blonde Germans. John was not complaining. It’s a fascinating city when you get away from the ‘touristy’ bits on the front and I found an amazing Chocolate factory which made my day. We also took in the Gallery of Contemporary arts and an exhibition of Etruscan artefacts. Not to mention several bars and cafes. JB used to sail from Palma as crew on a 100ft yacht called Puritan and I used to come here as Art Director on shoots for GUS so the whole day was a bit of a ‘blast from the past”.
Our run of bad luck seems to have stayed with us though. On Monday our fridge packed up. Just after a major shop for fresh fruit, cheese, meat fish (I think you get the picture.) Its 33 degrees here and the thought of getting through a day without a cold beer!!!! It does not bear thinking about. Anyway to cut a long story shrt we did some frantic phoning around, got some contacts in Palma, hired a car and hared off to Palma for the day. We found a company who can come and fit new stuff (the other was fitted when Galatea was made 20years ago so its not worth fixing) but now we have to sit here and wait until the parts arrive. All €1500 of them!!!! Extortion.
Its such a shame as we had planned to move South this week and visit the Isla Cabrera, just off Palma. It’s a National Park and supposed to be totally unspoilt and idyllic. Never mind we can go once the fridge is fixed. (And restocked with beer!) We are making good use of or time here with early morning and late night walks, lots of swimming and topping up the tan. JB is already mahogany and I am definitely going brown (at least on all the bits between my mozzie bites anyway).
Will let you know how the fridge repair goes in the next update. Gosh don’t we lead exciting lives? – the most memorable event this week is the fridge breaking down.
2 July – Porto Pollenca, Mallorca
Been in Pollenca now for what is actually six days but feels like 6 weeks. Actually though, I’ve found out its not Pollenca but Port Pollenca! Silly me – Pollenca is inland about 5miles.
Its been a huge boost to our finances as we have been either on a free mooring bouy or at anchor all week. So much so that on for Micks (supposed) last supper we splashed out on a local restaurant.
When we first arrived we picked up a bouy so close to the beach we could swim ashore but what it had in local colour it lacked in privacy. Mick and Simo, who had arrived the day before) were halfway out across the bay. Later we moved out to just under the lighthouse where the water is clearer (and cooler) and its quieter and more private. Today we are back to the middle as we need a grocery and water run and so need to be nearer the quay. Happy medium.
It’s a lovely place, a big, well sheltered curving bay with what looks like a cross between a fort, a farm house and a ruined palace on the promontory that protects the bay from the sea and also is home to the lighthouse. Fortunately its not too overdeveloped or too big and it’s a great destination for families so there is not too much of the yob element. On the downside a Ben & Jerrys single scoop costs 2.5Eoros!!!!!!!!! Extortionate.
Its so nice I checked out the price for a winter berth. 6,800 Euros eeeeeeek! Won’t be staying here this winter then. Back to the mainland I think.
Been round to Alcudia Port on the bus for some chandlery bits and (lord be praised) a wind scoop. This natty bit of kit is designed to capture any breeze about and funnel it down through a hatch into the boat. Absolute heaven – its been boiling here. When the going gets tough you can just go stand under it and its like a cool fan. I sometimes take a book and sit under it in the forepeak.
The alternative is a quick dip straight off the back of the boat. The water FEELS FREEZING when you try get in but once you’re acclimatised its total bliss. We are in and out regularly and love an early morning dip before the sun is too hot in place of the morning ablutions. There are always little fish and Shag swimming around the boat. I got some great shots.
Days here are punctuated by the sea plane stationed at the end of the bay taking off and landing. Its fantastic to watch and so close to the boat. Don’t know why more planes don’t land on water? Again I got some great shots.
Had a couple of bus trips out to local villages Pollenca, Alcudia and etc. Local buses here seem pretty good and reasonable. Pollenca was a lovely ancient hill town topped by a chapel and Alcudia a walled coastal village. Both really atmospheric with gorgeous houses and cobbled streets.
Will soon be heading off further round the North coast of the island so will post again from Puerto Colum.
Its been a huge boost to our finances as we have been either on a free mooring bouy or at anchor all week. So much so that on for Micks (supposed) last supper we splashed out on a local restaurant.
When we first arrived we picked up a bouy so close to the beach we could swim ashore but what it had in local colour it lacked in privacy. Mick and Simo, who had arrived the day before) were halfway out across the bay. Later we moved out to just under the lighthouse where the water is clearer (and cooler) and its quieter and more private. Today we are back to the middle as we need a grocery and water run and so need to be nearer the quay. Happy medium.
It’s a lovely place, a big, well sheltered curving bay with what looks like a cross between a fort, a farm house and a ruined palace on the promontory that protects the bay from the sea and also is home to the lighthouse. Fortunately its not too overdeveloped or too big and it’s a great destination for families so there is not too much of the yob element. On the downside a Ben & Jerrys single scoop costs 2.5Eoros!!!!!!!!! Extortionate.
Its so nice I checked out the price for a winter berth. 6,800 Euros eeeeeeek! Won’t be staying here this winter then. Back to the mainland I think.
Been round to Alcudia Port on the bus for some chandlery bits and (lord be praised) a wind scoop. This natty bit of kit is designed to capture any breeze about and funnel it down through a hatch into the boat. Absolute heaven – its been boiling here. When the going gets tough you can just go stand under it and its like a cool fan. I sometimes take a book and sit under it in the forepeak.
The alternative is a quick dip straight off the back of the boat. The water FEELS FREEZING when you try get in but once you’re acclimatised its total bliss. We are in and out regularly and love an early morning dip before the sun is too hot in place of the morning ablutions. There are always little fish and Shag swimming around the boat. I got some great shots.
Days here are punctuated by the sea plane stationed at the end of the bay taking off and landing. Its fantastic to watch and so close to the boat. Don’t know why more planes don’t land on water? Again I got some great shots.
Had a couple of bus trips out to local villages Pollenca, Alcudia and etc. Local buses here seem pretty good and reasonable. Pollenca was a lovely ancient hill town topped by a chapel and Alcudia a walled coastal village. Both really atmospheric with gorgeous houses and cobbled streets.
Will soon be heading off further round the North coast of the island so will post again from Puerto Colum.
May 08 - the off for the summer 2008 cruise
After a whirlwind week in Barcelona we have finally made it over to the Balearic Islands. I say finally as that’s what it feels like after a night sail (for me anyway).
Despite the overcast weather all week Barcelona was fabulous. We were in Port Vell (Old Port) right at the bottom of the Ramblas so we could walk straight off the boat and into the heart of the city. The downside is that Barcelona has siren envy. ALL the emergency services have to go everywhere with their sirens blaring. And boy, are they loud. It must be a very accident-prone city as they go almost constantly.
The architecture is a real eclectic mix which makes it really fascinating. Of course anything remotely related to Gaudi is like an LSD trip and hailed as art. He seems to be regarded as an architectural God and no one will say a word against him. Very PC in Barcelona to praise him as I guess his name fills the civic coffers in terms or tourism euros. His stuff is interesting and at times quite intriguing but I can’t say I like it. I can’t see it filtering down as an everyday architectural style as it it simply too expensive to replicate en mass. One thing is for certain everything he did looks like a work of art if not a bulding.
We ‘did’ the maritime museum which was a double hit as it is housed in authentic gothic buildings, visited Mies van der Rohes Barcelona pavilion (well we had to didn’t we as it influenced our new house so strongly) on Mont Juic and spent hours just wandering various areas of the city.
Our favourite though, was the cloisters of the original cathedral in the Gothic Barri. Huge white geese wander the cool dappled courtyard which is filled with foliage and greenery. Such a contrast with the soaring gothic stone tracery. It felt almost magical and contrasted strongly with the outside.
It was fascinating wandering around the old city and we found some really unusual shops. One made sweets by hand. The smell was totally satisfying, a warm sweet caramel type smell that whisked you back to childhood. They were kneading great soft mounds of boiled sugar on oiled boards and the end results were simply a visual and oral feast. Brilliant gems of flavour and colour. Banana, peach, raspberry, strawberry, passion fruit, pear, lemon, lime, red grapefruit etc each with a little fruit running through it as with sticks of rock. We bought a tiny mixed pack as they were… yes wait for it 4.80 Euros a 100gms. (around £4.00)
Mick, our friend from last years sailing who with his partner Jackie have now bought a house in France, came down to his boat Simo, in Badalona (just up the coast). So we met up for lunch before he went on out to his boat. He leaves for Majorca the day before we do so we arranged to meet up there.
So many Euros lighter and footsore from all the walking we set off at 12.00 Thursday for Majorca. We had a good breeze and managed to sail till after midnight when the wind dropped and we had to rely on the donk (engine… don’t ask!). Despite the mega dose sea sick pills I bought in Barcelona I of course felt sick but managed to pull back from the brink after a long sleep. Having said that I still did my watches so JB could sleep too. We arrived at the cliffs of Formentor lighthouse as dawn rose and painted them a soft peach, pink. We could hear Eleanoras falcons calling but failed to spot them on such a high rugged mass. At 8.30 we picked up a bouy in Polenca harbour under a bright blue sky and with a soft breeze to make it bearable. I then promptly fell asleep till 13.00. Well I was knackered and totally drugged up from the pills. Later we met up with Mick and had supper on Galatea before going ashore to walk along the front.
So now we start exploring the islands…
Despite the overcast weather all week Barcelona was fabulous. We were in Port Vell (Old Port) right at the bottom of the Ramblas so we could walk straight off the boat and into the heart of the city. The downside is that Barcelona has siren envy. ALL the emergency services have to go everywhere with their sirens blaring. And boy, are they loud. It must be a very accident-prone city as they go almost constantly.
The architecture is a real eclectic mix which makes it really fascinating. Of course anything remotely related to Gaudi is like an LSD trip and hailed as art. He seems to be regarded as an architectural God and no one will say a word against him. Very PC in Barcelona to praise him as I guess his name fills the civic coffers in terms or tourism euros. His stuff is interesting and at times quite intriguing but I can’t say I like it. I can’t see it filtering down as an everyday architectural style as it it simply too expensive to replicate en mass. One thing is for certain everything he did looks like a work of art if not a bulding.
We ‘did’ the maritime museum which was a double hit as it is housed in authentic gothic buildings, visited Mies van der Rohes Barcelona pavilion (well we had to didn’t we as it influenced our new house so strongly) on Mont Juic and spent hours just wandering various areas of the city.
Our favourite though, was the cloisters of the original cathedral in the Gothic Barri. Huge white geese wander the cool dappled courtyard which is filled with foliage and greenery. Such a contrast with the soaring gothic stone tracery. It felt almost magical and contrasted strongly with the outside.
It was fascinating wandering around the old city and we found some really unusual shops. One made sweets by hand. The smell was totally satisfying, a warm sweet caramel type smell that whisked you back to childhood. They were kneading great soft mounds of boiled sugar on oiled boards and the end results were simply a visual and oral feast. Brilliant gems of flavour and colour. Banana, peach, raspberry, strawberry, passion fruit, pear, lemon, lime, red grapefruit etc each with a little fruit running through it as with sticks of rock. We bought a tiny mixed pack as they were… yes wait for it 4.80 Euros a 100gms. (around £4.00)
Mick, our friend from last years sailing who with his partner Jackie have now bought a house in France, came down to his boat Simo, in Badalona (just up the coast). So we met up for lunch before he went on out to his boat. He leaves for Majorca the day before we do so we arranged to meet up there.
So many Euros lighter and footsore from all the walking we set off at 12.00 Thursday for Majorca. We had a good breeze and managed to sail till after midnight when the wind dropped and we had to rely on the donk (engine… don’t ask!). Despite the mega dose sea sick pills I bought in Barcelona I of course felt sick but managed to pull back from the brink after a long sleep. Having said that I still did my watches so JB could sleep too. We arrived at the cliffs of Formentor lighthouse as dawn rose and painted them a soft peach, pink. We could hear Eleanoras falcons calling but failed to spot them on such a high rugged mass. At 8.30 we picked up a bouy in Polenca harbour under a bright blue sky and with a soft breeze to make it bearable. I then promptly fell asleep till 13.00. Well I was knackered and totally drugged up from the pills. Later we met up with Mick and had supper on Galatea before going ashore to walk along the front.
So now we start exploring the islands…
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